PATTERN MAKING TECHNIQUIES

KGMT CLASSES

Thursday, 18 August 2011

PATTERN MAKING TECHNIQUIES

                                      CHAPTER 1 (19/07/11)




MEASUREMENT :-माप :- जब इन्सान या किसी वस्तु को लम्बाई / चोडाई  में  देखा जाता है , उसे माप कहते है 

ये माप माप टेप  या इंच टेप से लिया या देखा जाता है 

माप लेते समय ध्यान में रखने वाली बातें :- 

1.) बॉडी को सीधा अपनी अवस्था में होना चाहिए , ना ही किसी का सहारा लेना चाहिए /

2.) जब लम्बाई में माप लिया जाए तो बॉडी को झुकना नही चाहिए /

3.) माप बॉडी का लेना चाहिए  न कि  कपड़ो का /

4.) बॉडी के कपडे न तो ज्यादा टाइट और न ही ज्यादा ढीले  होने चाहिए /

5.) इंची टेप सही माप कि और साफ़ सुथरी  होनी चाहिए , उसमें कोई जोड़ नही लगा होना चाहिए /

6.) गोलाई में माप लेते समय टेप मुड़ी हुई ना हो /

MEASURING SYSTEM & METHOD :-

(माप लेने के दो प्रकार होते है ):-
DIRECT METHOD :- जब हम व्यक्ति  का सीधा माप लेते है 
INDIRECT METHOD :- जब हम व्यक्ति  का  माप लेने कि जगह उसके कपड़ो का माप लेकर हम PATTERN तेयार करते   है /


                  (27/07/11)
DIRECT METHOD :- 
UPPER TORSO (BODY) :- LENGTHWISE (लम्बाई के अनुसार )
1.) FULL LENGTH :-  HIGHEST POINT OF SHOULDER   (H P S ) TO AS PER REQUIREMENT LIKE:-FLOOR, FEET, ANKLE, CALF, KNEE, THIGH, HIP, WAIST, LOW WAIST & CHEST.


2.) LENGTH OF NAPE :- CENTER OF THE OF THE NECK [ CENTER OF FRONT  (CF)CENTER OF BACK (CB ) ]


NAPE TO AS PER REQUIREMENT LIKE CHEST, FLOOR ETC. 
3.) ARMHOLE :- LOWER POINT OF SHOULDER (L P S) TO UNDERARM .
=: 1/4 OF ROUND OF CHEST (40X1/4=10")
          (SHIRT & T-SHIRT).
=: 1/2 ACROSS SHOULDER IN STRAIGHT                                                 
                     ( LADIES SHIRT)  .
4.) SLEEVE LENGTH :- LOWER POINT TO AS PER REQUIREMENT LIKE  WRIST, ELBOW, SHORT, ETC.                                  

5.) FOR TIGHT FIT SLEEVE :- L P S TO ELBOW, ELBOW TO WRIST BONE 

UPPER TORSO (BODY) :- WIDTH WISE(चोडाई के अनुसार )
1.) CENTER OF FRONT TO CENTER OF                                     

        FRONT(CF)


2.) ACROSS SHOULDER :- LOWER POINT OF 

SHOULDER (L P S) TO L P S .


3.) ACROSS FRONT/BACK :- MID ARM TO MID ARM

4.) ROUND CHEST BUST :- 1" DOWN FROM UNDER ARM HOLE AND MEASURE THE CHEST ON FULLEST PART IN ROUND SHAPE. 

Add caption

5.) ROUND WAIST( कमर) :- MEASURE THE WAIST IN ROUND SHAPE.

=: 14"-15" FROM H P S .

 LOWER TORSO (BODY) :- LENGTHWISE

LENGTH :- LOW WAIST TO AS PER REQUIREMENT LIKE KNEE, FLOOR ETC.

2.) BODY RISE / CROTCH :-A PERSON SIT ON HARD CHAIR AND MEASURE THE LOW WAIST TO SEAT OF CHAIR .

=: 1/4 OF ROUND HIP.

WIDTH WISE :- 

1. LOW WAIST           

2. ROUND HIP

3. THIGH

4. KNEE (FOR LADIES)

5. ANKLE 

                                INDIRECT METHOD

1.) MEASUREMENT FROM GARMENT :- 

FULL LENGTH :- H P S TO BOTTOM

HALF CHEST :- I " DOWN TO UNDERARM POINT AND MEASURE THE SIDE SEAM TO SIDE SEAM.

ARMHOLE :- L P S TO UNDERARM ROUND & STRAIGHT BOTH.

ACROSS FRONT :- MID ARM HOLE TO MID ARM HOLE .


ACROSS BACK :- MID ARM HOLE TO MID ARM HOLE .

NECK WIDTH :-H P S TO H P S.

FRONT NECK DROP :- CENTER LINE TO NAPE .

BACK NECK DROP :- CENTER LINE TO NAPE .


BOTTOM :- SIDE SEAM TO SIDE SEAM .

SHOULDER LENGTH :- H P S TO L P S.

SLEEVE :- L P S TO BOTTOM OF SLEEVE .

IN SEAM SLEEVE LENGTH :- 

SLEEVE BOTTOM / OPENING / HEMMING:-


END PART OF SLEEVE LENGTH END AREA OF OF IN SEAM SLEEVE LENGTH.

BICEPS :-

TEXTILE SCIENCE (20/07/11)

                             FIBER                                                                 

 FIBER IS A UNIT IS A UNIT OF MATTER, WHICH IS  USUALLY   AT LEAST 100 TIMES LONGER THAN IT IS THICK. 
  
               LENGTH        :- 15MM TO 150 MM
           THICKNESS  :-  10MICRO M TO 50MI.M

  ITS ALSO CALLED STAPLE FIBER TOO.






                                     FILAMENT  
  
                   FILAMENT IS A VERY LONG FIBER.
  
  LENGTH   :-      FEW 100 METERS UP TO 
                             SEVERAL KILOMETERS .


THICKNESS :-   10 MICROMETER TO MI.M




                     SOURCE OF FIBER


CLASSIFICATION OF FIBER :-

 NATURAL FIBER :- 

VEGETABLE FIBER :-   COTTON, FLAX, JUTE .
      ANIMAL   FIBER :-     WOOL, SILK .
   MINERAL   FIBER :-   ASBESTOS (ROCK) .

SYNTHETIC FIBER :-  THEY ARE MEN MADE
                                          FIBER.

       CELLULOSE     FIBER    :-        RAYON  (VISCOSE). NON-CELLULOSE  FIBER    :-     POLYESTER,  ACRYLIC,
                                                           SPANDEX(LYCRA), NYLON



                         FIBER / STAPLE FIBER

ALL NATURAL FIBER EXCEPT(LEAVE THIS) SILK ARE  FIBER / STAPLE FIBER.


                     FILAMENT FIBER

ALL SYNTHETIC FIBER & SILK ARE FILAMENT FIBER.
SILK IS A NATURAL FILAMENT FIBER.  


                    
                         BLENDING

MIXING DIFFERENT FIBERS TOGETHER PRODUCE A YARN THAT HAS THE COMBINED PROPERTIES OF EACH COMPONENT FIBER . 
                   

  COMPONENT :-   POLYESTER + COTTON (PC)
                                    A MIXING TWO FIBER  YARN.
                                  POLYESTER +VISCOSE (RAYON)+
                          COTTON ( PVC). ITS BELONG WITH 3F.


                BENEFITS OF THE BLENDING 


1.   FIBER BLENDING IMPROVES THE                                      APPEARANCE (LOOK )  , PERFORMANCE (DURABILITY), 
COMFORT & AFTERCARE OF FABRIC .

2. REDUCES THE COST OF AN EXPENSIVE FABRIC.
      
         EXAMPLE :- POLYESTER / WOOL (P/W)
         
             WOOL IS VERY EXPENSIVE :- RS. 600 TO ABOVE /KG
              POLYESTER IS LOW RATE :- RS. 150 TO 200 / KG.



Q.          HOW TO KNOW ABOUT FIBER ?

ANS.  THE THREE VARIOUS PARTS OF TO KNOWN ABOUT FIBER.




  IDENTIFICATION :- MICROSCOPIC VIEW TEST, 
                                                   BURNING TEST, CHEMICAL
                                                    SOLUBILITY TEST
     
1.     MICROSCOPIC VIEW TEST :- LONGITUDINAL VIEW
                                                                  (LENGTH) & CROSS-
                                                                  SECTION VIEW 
                                                                (DIAMETER OR THICK).

THIS IS THE ONE TERM OF IDENTIFICATION OF FIBER.




           
           

MY CLASSES

    APPAREL TRAINING & DESIGN CENTER


              KNITTING MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY  
                                           
                                                                 18/07/11
                                                     
APPAREL IS  KNOWN AS A GARMENT. GARMENT IS A READY TO WEAR.
GARMENT IS MADE THIS COMPONENT LIKE FIBER (HE IS A RAW MATERIAL) , YARN (THIS IS LIKE A THREAD ) , FABRIC( YARN IS MAKE THE FABRIC) THEN WE MADE THE GARMENTS.

                        KINDS OF FIBER


NATURAL FIBER :- COTTON , WOOL , SILK , ETC.

SYNTHETIC FIBER :- POLYESTER, LYCRA,ACRYLIC,NYLON

DYEING & PRINTING IS DONE ANY STAGE OF GOODS LIKE FIBER, YARN, FABRIC & GARMENT.
                                            

THE PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING OF YARN FROM FIBER IS KNOWN AS SPINNING  .

COMPOSITE MILLS :- 

   THEY ARE PURCHASE FIBER & DONE             ALL   PROCESS OF MAKING THE GARMENT .

 JCB (PHAGWARA) , NAHAR TEXTILE (LUDHIANA) , ARE THE COMPOSITE MILLS .
  
SECOND STEP IS MAKE THE FABRIC FROM YARN . 
  
TWO TYPES OF FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES .
1.  WEAVING TECHNIQUES
2.    KNITTED TECHNIQUES


 KNITTED FABRIC IS USE MAKING THOSE  GARMENT LIKE T-SHIRTS, UNDER GARMENT, TRACK SUITS, SWEATERS, SOCKS ETC.

WOVEN FABRIC IS  USE MAKING THOSE GARMENT LIKE SHIRT, TROUSER(DENIM & NON DENIM), SHAWLS, SKIRTS ETC.